Havana deserves its reputation as a mecca for cigar smokers
There are some opportunities in this world that some people can say should always be taken advantage of. One of them is the pursuit of a great cigar experience in the Mecca of cigar smoking. Whether a seasoned connoisseur or simply a curious neophyte, there is no better concentration of knowledge and experience than in Havana.
As the home of the best cigars in the world one cannot experience Havana without noticing the ever present puro. From tourists in restaurants to the man sweeping the street, the odds are great they will have an ever present cigar. Cigars are not only part of the Cuban economy but they are a major part of both its history and culture. It matters not if you find yourself in Cuba as a tourist or on business you would be remiss not to devote a little time to pursue the lore of the Cuban cigar.
It is heartily recommend that you take the opportunity to sample various cigars, which you may purchase as singles, before you make the decision of which cigars you will buy in boxes to take home and enjoy. Remember, that every cigar will make your mind return to the atmosphere you enjoyed in Cuba so this selection is an important decision. It will be influenced by taste, lifestyle, budget and customs regulations of the country you are returning to.
One of the truly impressive experiences in
Havana is a tour of a cigar factory. To see the amount of trained hands required to create a cigar will add a new level of admiration in both the smoker and non-smoker alike. The tour I would recommend is the one offered at the Partagas factory (520 Industria St., behind the Capitolio) which has been producing cigars at the same location since 1845. The guided tour, which takes approximately one hour is a true value and will create a memory and an appreciation for the art of cigar making that will last long after your return home. Even non-smokers are bound to exit impressed and with a greater understanding of the lure of the cigar. If you happen to be travelling with a non-smoking spouse who does not understand your habit of burning money and making your clothing smell (not to mention dedicating so much of your leisure time to be spent outside of her company) this tour will go a long way to increasing understanding, if not harmony.
After learning how much effort and care goes into the production of a cigar nothing would be more appropriate than sampling the end product. Just before you exit to the street veer left through the wooden door into the store aptly named La Casa Del Habanos. Immediately you will find yourself in the most famous cigar store in the world. The selection of cigars available is sure to overwhelm and the knowledge and advice of the staff helps this location sell more cigars than any other on the island. This store is busy and traffic is heavy but this volume also offers you a greater selection of singles and boxes to purchase. If you become a recognized visitor or are just having a lucky day, ask if you may sit in the V.I.P. room to sample your cigar. This is one of the most revered places in the cigar world. A great place to relax and hide from the heat and humidity of the city. This is a favoured place to meet other smokers from around the world as well as enjoy a cup of coffee or one of Alfred's famous mojitos as you puff on your new purchase. Before you sink into the plush leather chairs browse the walls to see photos relating to both the history of the cigar and the many famous visitors that have come before you. As an example of the reputation of, and respect given to, the manager Abel Esposito and his staff is the fact that when Steven Spielberg visited Havana he was escorted here by none other than Fidel Castro himself.
As this store is busy, and you will probably only want to devote a limited time from your day to cigars, I would recommend a shorter cigar for your enjoyment at this time. One of the recent accomplishments of the Cuban cigar industry has been the release of a large selection of shorter cigars of exemplary quality. After all, how regularly do most of us get and hour and a half required to fully enjoy a larger cigar? The currently available selection is, in my opinion, highlighted by the following: Hoyo De Monterey Petit Robusto, Romeo y Julieta Short Churchill, and my recommendation the Montecristo Petit Edmundo. I love this little cigar, perfect for when you need a relatively quick smoke that is full of flavour and richness. At 52 x 110 mm this cigar will fill your mouth with the taste of cocoa juxtaposed with cedar and spice. It is a brilliant smoke of medium strength with a long finish previously reserved for a much larger cigar. During my last visit my friends and I made this the No. 1 cigar on our list of purchases. I would be very surprised if this does not make it on the list as a cigar you must bring home a box of. Especially since the shorter format is much more amiable to our busy, overscheduled lives once we return from holidays.
As soon as you step out of Partagas you will be overrun by the scourge of the cigar world, the jinetero. These folks will offer you unimagined bargains. Almost all of them will claim to have a family member working in the factory, or better yet the warehouse. They will tempt you with the best known cigars at a fraction of the price in the store you just stepped out of so why not save a few hundred dollars? Well, there is a very good reason aside from the fact that it is illegal—they are fake! 100%, without a doubt. If you are lucky, most will be simply unsmokable, all will be unenjoyable and some may be very hazardous to your health. They will leave you with nothing more than remorse. Instead of reliving the glory of your time in Cuba, every time you smoke a cigar you will forever carry the anger of being duped—and most of that anger will be directed at yourself. So no matter what the offer, no matter how high in the cigar industry their brother, cousin or neighbour is supposed to be situated, just maintain your pace and respond with a simple but forceful "no gracias".
On the opposite end of the spectrum regarding environment and adrenaline is my favourite La Casa Del Habanos. Commonly referred to as La Quinta for it's location on the beautiful 5th Ave (Calle 5ta No. 1407, esquina 16) in the regal neighbourhood of Mirimar, this was the first high end cigar store in Cuba when its doors opened in 1990. This is a smoker's store. Outside of the regular tourist environment it is quieter and a destination in its own right. This is the place to take your time and truly take advantage of the expertise of Osmany Rios and his fellow staff members. The selection is large and the suburban setting allows you to slow down after the hectic pace of the city. Here, I would recommend you allow yourself the time for a conversation with friends or reflective solitude. Order a coffee or a drink from the bar, or even lunch from the adjoining restaurant, then relax in a wicker chair and enjoy a larger, longer smoke.
One of my recommendations would be the Punch Churchill. This cigar is one of the classic churchills. Recent vintages are reminiscent of the glory this cigar achieved in the late 90s with a steady even draw that fills your mouth with the flavours of spice, leather and wood (stay away from the 1999—2001 era as there were quality issues throughout the Cuban cigar industry leading to far too frequent issues with plugged cigars). They are beautifully constructed and the wrappers I have seen on recent vintages are absolutely glorious to both the senses of sight and touch. The flavours evolve as you enjoy the cigar getting richer and fuller the further down the cigar you get and leaving you fulfilled—grateful that you indulged yourself. This medium strength cigar will only get better with age. Recently, I smoked some older vintage examples of this cigar which have been aging gracefully in my humidor and I was overwhelmed by the transition into a bomb of chocolate and spice (now I just regret not buying more).
If you are fortunate enough to have the time to dedicate yourself to the enjoyment of a longer smoke, or if you will be keeping them just for special occasions, I would also recommend the Montecristo No. 2, the Hoyo De Monterey Double Corona or the H. Upmann Sir Winston. All the above from the period of 2003 to present should be outstanding.
Further west past Miramar is the enclave of Club Habana (Calle 5ta e/ 188 y 192, Miramar). This was the exclusive Biltmore Club pre-Revolution and although it boasts tennis courts, gym, fine dining and a private beach, the real draw for cigar smokers is the La Casa del Habano run by Enrique Mons. One of the living icons of the cigar world, Mons was in charge of quality for Cubatabaco (predecessor of Habanos) for almost 20 years. Mons was the manager who opened La Quinta when it was the first of the modern cigar stores opened in Cuba. I doubt there has been a cigar produced in Cuba in the last 35 years that Mons doesn't have an opinion on. He will gladly tell you what is smoking well and what he is currently recommending. The comfortable lounge is a great place to sit, smoke and chat.
Here it would be appropriate to smoke a full flavoured cigar. This would be a great place to enjoy the resurgence of the Montecristo No. 2. Once revered as the ultimate pyramid, it suffered through a couple of quiet years. Current production is, once again, a king amongst cigars. The wrapper was silky and shiny with oils you could feel on your fingers. From first light, the flawless construction showed itself with a full, even draw. Initially, the flavour was surprisingly sweet with a mixture of peppery spice. As I smoked down to the second half of the cigar, the sweetness lingered but the spiciness increased. These flavours danced right down to the nub of the cigar. The aromatic blue smoke was the kind you thought only existed in print ads. Look for recent vintages of this cigar; it will remind you of years gone by.
If you happen to find yourself exploring the hectic streets of
Havana Vieja, make sure you visit another cigar destination-the hotel Conde de Villanueva (Calle Mercaderes 202, esq. Lamparilla). The building was built as the mansion of Claudio Martínez de Pinillos, Count of Villanueva, but has been given a new life as a nine-room hotel. Every room and suite is named after a brand of cigars, but that is not what makes it a haven for smokers. As you enter the airy courtyard, on your right you will see a flight of stairs to the old servants' quarters on the mezzanine; at the top of the stairs is a hidden gem of a La Casa del Habano. This hidden wonder is managed by Antonio Hevia and staffed by one of the most overlooked in-store rollers in the city, Reynaldo González. This beautiful little store with adjoining bar is truly one of the hidden treasures in the cigar world. Whether you select one of Reynaldo's exquisitely rolled cigars or something from the full assortment of Habanos' offerings, I would recommend you have a quick coffee or drink in the bar and light your cigar.
My choice for a great cigar in the environment of the airy courtyard would be a La Gloria Cubana Medal D'or No. 2. Recently I rediscovered this overlooked brand when I found a couple of boxes from 1997 in the back of the humidor. How do I describe this epicurean experience properly? My mouth was filled with the taste of cedar and leather all coated in a fine mist of honey. A mild cigar by most standards, I found this to be a perfect way to wile away an afternoon. The draw was consistent and full and the flavours married well with a couple of Serrano coffees.
I will close of by stating the obvious, cigar preferences are subjective. Every one of us has, or will develop, their own personal likes and dislikes. Like wine, you may select a different cigar depending on the meal you eat before it, what you are drinking with it or the environment within which you will smoke it. Visiting Cuba offers you the rare opportunity to sample many different examples of the world's best cigars and gather information from the many experienced and knowledgeable people working in the industry. It is the university of the cigar and, regardless of whether this is your first week as a freshman or you are pursuing a post-graduate degree, this is as good as it gets so take full advantage and enjoy
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