CIGARS IN HAVANA A VISITORS GUIDE

Havana deserves its reputation as a mecca for cigar smokers

There are some opportunities in this world that  some people  can say should always be taken advantage of. One of them is the pursuit of a great cigar experience in the Mecca of cigar smoking. Whether a seasoned connoisseur or simply a curious neophyte, there is no better concentration of knowledge and experience than in Havana.

As the home of the best cigars in the world one cannot experience Havana without noticing the ever present puro. From tourists in restaurants to the man sweeping the street, the odds are great they will have an ever present cigar. Cigars are not only part of the Cuban economy but they are a major part of both its history and culture. It matters not if you find yourself in Cuba as a tourist or on business you would be remiss not to devote a little time to pursue the lore of the Cuban cigar.

It is  heartily recommend that you take the opportunity to sample various cigars, which you may purchase as singles, before you make the decision of which cigars you will buy in boxes to take home and enjoy. Remember, that every cigar will make your mind return to the atmosphere you enjoyed in Cuba so this selection is an important decision. It will be influenced by taste, lifestyle, budget and customs regulations of the country you are returning to.

One of the truly impressive experiences in Havana is a tour of a cigar factory. To see the amount of trained hands required to create a cigar will add a new level of admiration in both the smoker and non-smoker alike. The tour I would recommend is the one offered at the Partagas factory (520 Industria St., behind the Capitolio) which has been producing cigars at the same location since 1845. The guided tour, which takes approximately one hour is a true value and will create a memory and an appreciation for the art of cigar making that will last long after your return home. Even non-smokers are bound to exit impressed and with a greater understanding of the lure of the cigar. If you happen to be travelling with a non-smoking spouse who does not understand your habit of burning money and making your clothing smell (not to mention dedicating so much of your leisure time to be spent outside of her company) this tour will go a long way to increasing understanding, if not harmony.

After learning how much effort and care goes into the production of a cigar nothing would be more appropriate than sampling the end product. Just before you exit to the street veer left through the wooden door into the store aptly named La Casa Del Habanos. Immediately you will find yourself in the most famous cigar store in the world. The selection of cigars available is sure to overwhelm and the knowledge and advice of the staff helps this location sell more cigars than any other on the island. This store is busy and traffic is heavy but this volume also offers you a greater selection of singles and boxes to purchase. If you become a recognized visitor or are just having a lucky day, ask if you may sit in the V.I.P. room to sample your cigar. This is one of the most revered places in the cigar world. A great place to relax and hide from the heat and humidity of the city. This is a favoured place to meet other smokers from around the world as well as enjoy a cup of coffee or one of Alfred's famous mojitos as you puff on your new purchase. Before you sink into the plush leather chairs browse the walls to see photos relating to both the history of the cigar and the many famous visitors that have come before you. As an example of the reputation of, and respect given to, the manager Abel Esposito and his staff is the fact that when Steven Spielberg visited Havana he was escorted here by none other than Fidel Castro himself.

As this store is busy, and you will probably only want to devote a limited time from your day to cigars, I would recommend a shorter cigar for your enjoyment at this time. One of the recent accomplishments of the Cuban cigar industry has been the release of a large selection of shorter cigars of exemplary quality. After all, how regularly do most of us get and hour and a half required to fully enjoy a larger cigar? The currently available selection is, in my opinion, highlighted by the following: Hoyo De Monterey Petit Robusto, Romeo y Julieta Short Churchill, and my recommendation the Montecristo Petit Edmundo. I love this little cigar, perfect for when you need a relatively quick smoke that is full of flavour and richness. At 52 x 110 mm this cigar will fill your mouth with the taste of cocoa juxtaposed with cedar and spice. It is a brilliant smoke of medium strength with a long finish previously reserved for a much larger cigar. During my last visit my friends and I made this the No. 1 cigar on our list of purchases. I would be very surprised if this does not make it on the list as a cigar you must bring home a box of. Especially since the shorter format is much more amiable to our busy, overscheduled lives once we return from holidays.

As soon as you step out of Partagas you will be overrun by the scourge of the cigar world, the jinetero. These folks will offer you unimagined bargains. Almost all of them will claim to have a family member working in the factory, or better yet the warehouse. They will tempt you with the best known cigars at a fraction of the price in the store you just stepped out of so why not save a few hundred dollars? Well, there is a very good reason aside from the fact that it is illegal—they are fake! 100%, without a doubt. If you are lucky, most will be simply unsmokable, all will be unenjoyable and some may be very hazardous to your health. They will leave you with nothing more than remorse. Instead of reliving the glory of your time in Cuba, every time you smoke a cigar you will forever carry the anger of being duped—and most of that anger will be directed at yourself. So no matter what the offer, no matter how high in the cigar industry their brother, cousin or neighbour is supposed to be situated, just maintain your pace and respond with a simple but forceful "no gracias".

On the opposite end of the spectrum regarding environment and adrenaline is my favourite La Casa Del Habanos. Commonly referred to as La Quinta for it's location on the beautiful 5th Ave (Calle 5ta No. 1407, esquina 16) in the regal neighbourhood of Mirimar, this was the first high end cigar store in Cuba when its doors opened in 1990. This is a smoker's store. Outside of the regular tourist environment it is quieter and a destination in its own right. This is the place to take your time and truly take advantage of the expertise of Osmany Rios and his fellow staff members. The selection is large and the suburban setting allows you to slow down after the hectic pace of the city. Here, I would recommend you allow yourself the time for a conversation with friends or reflective solitude. Order a coffee or a drink from the bar, or even lunch from the adjoining restaurant, then relax in a wicker chair and enjoy a larger, longer smoke.

One of my recommendations would be the Punch Churchill. This cigar is one of the classic churchills. Recent vintages are reminiscent of the glory this cigar achieved in the late 90s with a steady even draw that fills your mouth with the flavours of spice, leather and wood (stay away from the 1999—2001 era as there were quality issues throughout the Cuban cigar industry leading to far too frequent issues with plugged cigars). They are beautifully constructed and the wrappers I have seen on recent vintages are absolutely glorious to both the senses of sight and touch. The flavours evolve as you enjoy the cigar getting richer and fuller the further down the cigar you get and leaving you fulfilled—grateful that you indulged yourself. This medium strength cigar will only get better with age. Recently, I smoked some older vintage examples of this cigar which have been aging gracefully in my humidor and I was overwhelmed by the transition into a bomb of chocolate and spice (now I just regret not buying more).

If you are fortunate enough to have the time to dedicate yourself to the enjoyment of a longer smoke, or if you will be keeping them just for special occasions, I would also recommend the Montecristo No. 2, the Hoyo De Monterey Double Corona or the H. Upmann Sir Winston. All the above from the period of 2003 to present should be outstanding.

Further west past Miramar is the enclave of Club Habana (Calle 5ta e/ 188 y 192, Miramar). This was the exclusive Biltmore Club pre-Revolution and although it boasts tennis courts, gym, fine dining and a private beach, the real draw for cigar smokers is the La Casa del Habano run by Enrique Mons. One of the living icons of the cigar world, Mons was in charge of quality for Cubatabaco (predecessor of Habanos) for almost 20 years. Mons was the manager who opened La Quinta when it was the first of the modern cigar stores opened in Cuba. I doubt there has been a cigar produced in Cuba in the last 35 years that Mons doesn't have an opinion on. He will gladly tell you what is smoking well and what he is currently recommending. The comfortable lounge is a great place to sit, smoke and chat.

Here it would be appropriate to smoke a full flavoured cigar. This would be a great place to enjoy the resurgence of the Montecristo No. 2. Once revered as the ultimate pyramid, it suffered through a couple of quiet years. Current production is, once again, a king amongst cigars. The wrapper was silky and shiny with oils you could feel on your fingers. From first light, the flawless construction showed itself with a full, even draw. Initially, the flavour was surprisingly sweet with a mixture of peppery spice. As I smoked down to the second half of the cigar, the sweetness lingered but the spiciness increased. These flavours danced right down to the nub of the cigar. The aromatic blue smoke was the kind you thought only existed in print ads. Look for recent vintages of this cigar; it will remind you of years gone by.

If you happen to find yourself exploring the hectic streets of Havana Vieja, make sure you visit another cigar destination-the hotel Conde de Villanueva (Calle Mercaderes 202, esq. Lamparilla). The building was built as the mansion of Claudio Martínez de Pinillos, Count of Villanueva, but has been given a new life as a nine-room hotel. Every room and suite is named after a brand of cigars, but that is not what makes it a haven for smokers. As you enter the airy courtyard, on your right you will see a flight of stairs to the old servants' quarters on the mezzanine; at the top of the stairs is a hidden gem of a La Casa del Habano. This hidden wonder is managed by Antonio Hevia and staffed by one of the most overlooked in-store rollers in the city, Reynaldo González. This beautiful little store with adjoining bar is truly one of the hidden treasures in the cigar world. Whether you select one of Reynaldo's exquisitely rolled cigars or something from the full assortment of Habanos' offerings, I would recommend you have a quick coffee or drink in the bar and light your cigar.

My choice for a great cigar in the environment of the airy courtyard would be a La Gloria Cubana Medal D'or No. 2. Recently I rediscovered this overlooked brand when I found a couple of boxes from 1997 in the back of the humidor. How do I describe this epicurean experience properly? My mouth was filled with the taste of cedar and leather all coated in a fine mist of honey. A mild cigar by most standards, I found this to be a perfect way to wile away an afternoon. The draw was consistent and full and the flavours married well with a couple of Serrano coffees.

I will close of by stating the obvious, cigar preferences are subjective. Every one of us has, or will develop, their own personal likes and dislikes. Like wine, you may select a different cigar depending on the meal you eat before it, what you are drinking with it or the environment within which you will smoke it. Visiting Cuba offers you the rare opportunity to sample many different examples of the world's best cigars and gather information from the many experienced and knowledgeable people working in the industry. It is the university of the cigar and, regardless of whether this is your first week as a freshman or you are pursuing a post-graduate degree, this is as good as it gets so take full advantage and enjoy

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Havana Awaits You! Discover the Vibrant Heart of Cuba

 Havana, Cuba's capital, is a city that will instantly charm you with its unique allure and striking contrasts. Imagine a place where history, stunning architecture, iconic Cuban culture, and an unparalleled cultural scene blend seamlessly to create one of Latin America's most fascinating destinations. From the legendary Malecón to the imposing Plaza de la Revolución, and passing by the emblematic Giraldilla, every corner of Havana invites you to an unforgettable experience.

A Journey Through Past and Present

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Havana's history is a true treasure, filled with captivating museums, breathtaking restoration projects, and an artistic and cultural heritage that will completely envelop you. Get ready to delight your senses with vibrant paintings, lively murals, novels that will transport you, authentic Cuban folk music, and the infectious rhythm of rumba. Havana's streets buzz with a vibrant, colorful atmosphere, revealing something new at every turn, from spontaneous concerts to dazzling cabaret shows.

But beyond the tourist spots, one of Havana's greatest appeals is simply observing its daily life. Witness the joy of children playing baseball in the street, listen to wandering troubadours, or see a young couple meticulously maintaining a 1955 Plymouth right on the sidewalk. It's the unique way Havanans express themselves, create, debate, live, and, above all, enjoy life. Don't be shy; get to know their stories and the passion that drives them while you share a game of dominoes in a tranquil, serene setting.

The explosion of color and diversity isn't just in the art and culture; it's also reflected in its incredible fleet of classic cars, one of the most impressive in the world. Hundreds of vehicles from different eras and styles turn Havana's streets into a rolling museum. Just imagine taking a ride in one of these spectacular cars – you'll feel transported to an era of luxury and glamour.

The Cuban capital will amaze you with its vibrant nightlife and a musical culture that flows through every single street. Life in Havana is a party, with every musical style present and lived with contagious fervor. The city offers a wide range of live concerts and impromptu recitals, and on many streets and squares, you'll stumble upon incredibly talented local artists.

Discover Havana's Secrets

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To truly get a feel for Havana, we recommend at least three days, though a full week will allow you to truly immerse yourself in its essence. The main points of interest are concentrated in Old Havana, Central Havana, and Vedado. Each of these neighborhoods has a unique and irreplaceable charm that makes them mandatory stops on your trip to Cuba.

Old Havana, located east of the city and facing the bay, is a true masterpiece. It's where the original town was founded and is a must-see architectural gem. Central Havana, in the northern and central part of the city, offers an authentic look into Cuban life and houses many of its most iconic landmarks. Meanwhile, Vedado, in the Plaza de la Revolución, is the most splendid area, known for having been a former mafia stronghold and now brimming with hotels, restaurants, and a lively nightlife. This district is Havana's commercial and residential heart.

You can't visit Havana without getting lost in Old Havana, enjoying its four main colonial-era squares, exploring its fascinating museums, and learning about its rich history. Its historic center, spanning 4 square kilometers, is full of history and tradition at every turn, with countless monuments and museums on various themes.

Old Havana is one of the safest and most peaceful areas in all of Latin America and was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The best way to explore it is by walking its streets, getting lost in its alleys, and letting your senses guide your route. Taking your time in any part of this iconic neighborhood will turn your trip into a fascinating experience. Don't miss the City Museum, the Museum of Colonial Art, the Plaza de Armas, the Cathedral of San Cristóbal de La Habana, the Convent of San Francisco de Asís, and the Castillo de la Real Fuerza.

Another excellent idea is to head to the port of Old Havana, facing the bay, to take a ferry to the Morro-Cabaña Historical Military Park and visit the Castillo de los Tres Santos Reyes del Morro and the Fortaleza de San Carlos de la Cabaña. These colonial buildings were Havana's defensive core against pirates and enemy troops. From there, you'll get an incredible panoramic view of the city that captivates both travelers and locals.

The Vedado neighborhood, in the Plaza de la Revolución, is one of those places that not only recalls another era but also another world, as its streets and buildings seem to have been taken from major U.S. cities like New York or Miami. Breaking with Havana's colonial tradition, Vedado resembles a small metropolis, serving as a commercial, residential, and cultural hub with some skyscrapers and large buildings. What makes this neighborhood essential during your trip is its distinct cultural, social, political, economic, and artistic vibe.

Central Havana is one of the most beautiful and vibrant areas of the Cuban capital, home to some of the country's most interesting and iconic buildings, such as the National Capitol of Cuba. It also features boulevards and old buildings that testify to its colonial past. The National Museum of Fine Arts and the Paseo de Martí, dedicated to the national hero, are also located here. If you're looking to relax and escape the city's hustle and bustle, this neighborhood has numerous parks filled with monuments, fountains, and greenery. And of course, you can't leave Central Havana without visiting the famous Malecón, one of the city's landmarks, where you can stroll by the sea and enjoy the pleasant, fresh sea breeze.

If time allows, outside the city, you'll find numerous picturesque towns and villages, each with its own unique charm. The most interesting places include Miramar, home to the National Aquarium of Cuba; Marianao and Cubanacán in the Playa municipality; the town of Santiago de Las Vegas in the Boyeros municipality; the municipalities of Regla and Guanabacoa; the towns of Cojímar and Casablanca, with the giant statue of El Cristo de La Habana; the Hemingway Museum in San Francisco de Paula; the Lenin Park area, with the National Zoo and the National Botanical Garden; and Playas del Este, where some of Havana's best beaches are located, as well as Santa María del Rosario.

What to do in Havana?

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Havana will win a place in your heart with its countless facets and possibilities. Stroll through its lively and colorful streets, from Old Havana to Vedado, lose yourself in centuries of colonial and contemporary history, and meet the friendly locals who brighten every corner of the city with their stories, tales, and Cuban folk music.

Let yourself be captivated by the music and rhythm; attend one of the fantastic dance classes offering the best Caribbean beats, or simply enjoy live Caribbean music while sipping a delicious mojito. You can experience these in two impressive ways: the Tropicana Cabaret, with a fantastic excursion that includes a show, offering magnificent performances and dinners in different locations; and the Cabaret Parisien, with over fifty years of history, offering colorful and multicultural shows.

Another fantastic plan is to discover the city's artistic tradition by exploring the architectural mosaic of art deco, neoclassical, and colonial baroque styles. The Fábrica de Arte Cubano undoubtedly showcases important works of contemporary art by great Cuban authors, finding its roots and counterpoint in the National Museum of Fine Arts. Havana's vast museum offerings aren't limited to the arts, as they encompass various areas. You'll find excellent examples such as the Museum of the Revolution, the Rum Museum, the Tobacco Museum, or the iconic Havana Pharmacy Museum and the Automobile Museum.

Marvel at the spectacular panoramic views from El Malecón, especially at sunset, and then enjoy the Cannon Shot Ceremony, which keeps alive the tradition of raising the harbor's protective chains every day at 9 PM. If you prefer to experience it up close, you can attend the ceremony at the Fortaleza San Carlos de la Cabaña. Visit the Plaza de la Revolución with the José Martí Memorial and the University of Havana in Vedado. Discover the unusual beauty of the Cristóbal Colón Necropolis or the majestic buildings in Central Havana, such as the imposing National Capitol of Cuba, and admire the beautiful classic cars that roam the city daily—true museum pieces that you can see, photograph, and even drive.

Traveling with children is a fantastic experience thanks to the tranquility and safety that envelop the city. The city's museums are interesting options for fun and learning, as most of them have sections and experiences dedicated to children. Additionally, there are fabulous options like visiting the Havana Planetarium in Old Havana or the National Zoo, located near the wonderful Lenin Park. You can book a guided tour to explore the National Zoo and visit the Havana Equestrian Center. In the Miramar neighborhood, along the famous Quinta Avenida, you'll find two fascinating places to spend a great and joyful day: the National Aquarium and the Isla del Coco Amusement Park, formerly known as Coney Island.

Finally, there are also interesting options for sports enthusiasts. Marabana, Havana's marathon, takes place in November, and registrations are open to the public. Additionally, in February, the Havana Triathlon is held, with categories ranging from elite athletes to beginners. The Marina Hemingway hosts the Ernest Hemingway International Billfish Tournament and organizes excursions dedicated to sport fishing and diving.

What are the best excursions near Havana?

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From here, you can take various excursions that will turn your trip into an unforgettable experience. One of the best options is a trip to Cayo Largo, one of Cuba's greatest attractions, where you'll find some of the most paradisiacal beaches in the Caribbean and can observe dolphins, starfish, and sea turtles in their natural habitat. The excursion includes round-trip flights, a catamaran ride, and various water activities.

The Jibacoa Nature Tour offers an exciting jeep adventure between Havana and Matanzas, where you can discover the local flora and fauna, enjoy panoramic views of the Yumurí Valley, and end with snorkeling in the pristine Punta de Maya area.

From Havana, you can reach Varadero with the Varadero Nature Tour, a jeep ride visiting places like the Bacunayagua Bridge, considered the highest in Cuba. It also includes a city tour of Matanzas, a boat ride on the Canímar River, and a visit to Varadero's beaches.

Visiting Viñales on an excursion is another fantastic idea to explore western Cuba. In this area, you can enjoy nature and explore the Viñales Valley, dotted with numerous mogotes, declared a UNESCO Cultural Landscape and a National Natural Monument. You can also admire the Mural of Prehistory and venture into the Cueva del Indio on a boat ride. Additionally, you can enjoy products as important to Cuba's history as rum and tobacco by visiting various factories and learning about their history and production.

Caribbean Day is a jeep excursion that includes a visit to Guamá Park, located in the Zapata Swamp, declared a World Biosphere Reserve, and a visit to Cuba's largest crocodile breeding center, where you can see magnificent specimens of this species. The tour also includes a fun boat ride through the Laguna del Tesoro and a delicious lunch at Caleta Buena, where you can enjoy snorkeling.

Discovering Cuba's history would be impossible without understanding the importance of tobacco. The Tobacco Route is an excursion that starts in Havana and ends in Pinar del Río. The tour includes a specialized guide who will teach you everything about the origin, planting, cultivation, and harvesting of tobacco. You'll also enjoy a day of relaxation and exchange ideas with local producers to learn about their traditions and methods of working with tobacco.

With the Hemingway Route, you can explore the places where the famous Nobel Prize-winning writer Ernest Hemingway lived in Cuba. The excursion includes a specialized guide and an electric bike ride. During this tour, you'll visit iconic places like the Hotel Ambos Mundos, Finca Vigía, and Cojímar, a beautiful fishing village. The tour also includes a delicious cocktail at the La Terraza de Cojímar restaurant and a tasting of German sausages at the Bavaria Garden. Back in the historic center of the city, you'll enjoy the mojito that enchanted the writer at La Bodeguita del Medio.

Walking Tour of Havana

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If you have limited time to explore Havana, you can start with a walking city tour to discover Havana in 48 hours. You'll begin by visiting Old Havana, the city's historic center, declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Walking through its streets, you'll appreciate its iconic monuments, fortresses, and cultural and artistic heritage. Next, you'll visit the National Capitol of Cuba in Central Havana, as well as its most emblematic buildings, and finally, the Vedado neighborhood and the University of Havana. After this city tour, you'll have enough time to explore iconic areas like the bay and its fortresses, where the Cannon Shot Ceremony takes place daily at 9 PM. Another must-see is the Malecón, where you'll enjoy a wonderful atmosphere caressed by the delightful sea breeze, an ideal spot to watch the sunset. A fantastic option is to take a tour in a classic car to explore the districts surrounding the historic center and finish discovering the most iconic and emblematic places in the capital.

When to visit Havana?

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Between June and October, Havana, like the rest of Cuba, can be stiflingly hot, so the best option is to visit the city during the cooler months. November to April are the best times to travel to Havana. Besides being cooler, it's also the dry season, avoiding the hurricane season.

On the other hand, February is one of the best times to visit the Cuban capital, as it's when the International Jazz Festival and the Havana Triathlon are held, while October hosts the International Ballet Festival. In November, the Havana Marathon takes place. Finally, the busiest and liveliest month is December, when the Festival of New Latin American Cinema is held, and at the beginning of the year, on January 1st and 2nd, the Triumph of the Cuban Revolution and Victory Day are celebrated.

Where to stay in Havana?

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One of the most attractive and authentic accommodation options is to book your stay in a casa particular. These establishments, with rigorous quality controls, offer visitors the chance to stay in a Cuban home, allowing direct interaction with the warm, open, and hospitable Havanans, providing a firsthand experience of the most genuine customs and culture. If, on the other hand, you prefer the comfort and privacy of a hotel, there are many options to suit your needs and budget.

Old Havana is the historic center of the city, a fantastic place to stay to experience the purest Havana tradition. It's a very safe and peaceful area, surrounded by picturesque sites like monuments, museums, churches, and more. Staying here allows you to enjoy the magnificent colonial heritage that makes Havana a museum city.

In the Vedado neighborhood, you can enjoy a unique atmosphere full of culture and leisure. It's the political and administrative center of Cuba, as well as the largest residential and commercial district in the city. With architecture and buildings in a pure North American style, Vedado resembles a small-scale metropolis. Here, you'll find the Hotel Nacional de Cuba, declared a National Monument for its elegance and history, offering luxury services and top-quality amenities. The Tryp Habana Libre, one of the largest hotels in Cuba, was designed by the Hilton group in the 1950s and features an outdoor pool, restaurant, and bars. The NH Capri La Habana offers all the services and comforts you'll need for your trip. The Hotel Vedado is a tranquil hotel close to the Malecón, and the Hotel Colina is a pleasant hotel with a great location. The Meliá Habana is a luxurious building by the sea with an exquisite culinary offering. Finally, the Meliá Cohiba is an incredible skyscraper at the foot of the Malecón, offering spectacular views of the sea and the city, with the services and comforts of a major chain.

What's certain is that Havana has great accommodations to offer, with a wide range of prices and services that you're sure to enjoy.

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